Day 1 St Bees to Eskdale Green

Car shuttle done, bikes and kit successfully manoeuvred to our start point in St Bees, we were all set. Apart from it's raining.

There are some decisions which are very easy to make, to start in the rain or not.

We just need to make it to Eskdale Outward  Bound and be changed and ready by dinner time. Based on a ride done a few weeks previously, of a similar distance and height gain, we felt six hours was enough time. So that was it, a two hour wait-it-out it Morrisons cafe was the answer. Ready to hit the one hour dry-spell window, identified by a rain radar app, which would allow us to prep the bikes.

Sitting in the cafe, watching the rain, knowing we had to dip in the sea did not create a very inspiring start. We drove to the start point, stepped out into an unseasonal cold wind and drizzle. Motivated we were not.

Three of the team of four, being Outward Bound instructors, begrudgingly knew the power of a high impact start of a jog and dip. Essentially this is what we did (as tradition from our other coast to coast rides). The tide was out, it was a long old run, a quick dunk in provided a surprising warm welcome to the east coast. We were now ready in mind and practicalities.

Bikes packed, car abandoned, start selfie done, navigation running and right on queue rain starting again, we were off.

Roads and an old railway line provided a fast start to the ride. We were in Ennerdale, about to head into the hills and already wet. We passed a couple who has no waterproof trousers on and their map had turned to mush, but at least were still holding hands. They were walking the coast to coast and wanted to check they were still on the right path - I wonder how they got on.

The track stopped, the valley closed in, where did we go next? Straight up, about 450m. Before we embarked on that push, a small downhill, which unfortunately for Helen ended in a somersault off the bike into the bog, after her wheel got stuck in it.

For our other two coast to coast rides, keeping the feet dry has been a high priority and successfully achieved. But this point, on our very first day, this agenda was not kept. There was no escaping the bogs for anyone.

The push and carry up Black Sail pass was exhausting. The ground was either grassy and slippery or rocky, the bikes with our kit were heavy, at least the views from the top were good.

The downhill was sketchy, being very wet and steep, not all of it was rideable. The bits which were, made that exhausting push/carry all worthwhile.

There we were, in the next valley, the rain had stopped and, oh we can still see the sea. But a spot just south of where we started.

Back up the other side we went, pushing and looking forward to reaching the flatter ground of Eskdale Moor.  The flatter ground did not provide us with a track, we were greeted with bog. We would gingerly ride along, approach a puddle, not knowing whether it would be a sinker or a glider, we didn't want to be "doing a Helen". In the end we decided pushing was in fact quicker, for 4km. That shower before dinner time was slipping away, as 6pm passed on by.

Finally, some rideable downhill. Ah too good, as Helen burst a tyre on a rock. A Formula One change and were were back to it, with a stint on the road to go. We arrived at Eskdale just in time for tea.


Despite our wet and muddy state we were invited in, provided with amazing food, luxurious accommodation and even a bath.

It did not take us long to turn our minds to the next day and see what it had in store for us. A good sign that it was a good level of challenge today - exhausted but hungry for more. 





The stats: 
Moving time: 5hrs 24
Distance: 47.9km
Elevation gain: 1142m

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